The Zephyr

36 hour on a train seems like hell to some people but for me traveling across the States its the only way to travel. Forget all the stresses of road and air just hop on the Californian Zephyr and let it take you though some of the most stunning landscapes this world has to offer. It still amazes me that man can build such a engineering marvel as this first Trans Intercontinental railway line in the world, still much of the original route remains from the day it was built back in the early 1900s. More info about the route can be found here

I have already travelled part of the route from Chicago to Denver which I talked about in my last blog. The next part really excited me as heard that the scenery is rather mind blowing, they were not wrong. Boarding the train at 8am at Denver’s Union station I find myself in a packed out train which is a bit odd as I didn’t think anyone used the trains over here, i find my seat next to a old gentleman named Everitt and made myself at home.
iPod check,
Laptop check,
Last nights half eaten steak. double check! I wasn’t leaving that bad boy behind.

As the train pulls out of the station we can see the rockies get bigger and bigger from the window, an hour later we are starting to ascend them, the train slows down to navigate the hairpins bends that seem to cling to the rock face like some kinda of Harry Potter magic. 2/3 hours of climbing we hit the top where we are greeted with the first snow of the year in the US. A white blanket covers the floor and the small communities that live up there. Going to school up there must be a blast, surely half of the year school must be closed because of the snow.

The train couldn’t be more different than the asian network. 2nd class or coach class as Amtrak call it has no beds, instead it has aircraft style business class seats with lots and lots of leg room and leg rests. The train also has 1st class which has its own room and two beds in it. The cost of these rooms is from $600 to $1000. This is quite a contrast from the $80 I paid from Denver to San Fran for my 2nd class seat. The train is also equipped with a lounge cart which has huge panoramic windows and a bar.

There is also a restaurant cart which services pretty good food. Much better than the Russian trains thats for sure.

The train winds down the valley following the Colorado River and makes a few short stops before heading in to the desert of Utah, we pass many wonderful rock formations and extinct volcanos which many can only be seen from the train window as they are in such remote places.

As you look up on to the mountains and over the edge of shear cliffs, you can quite imagine seeing cowboys and Indians getting ready to rob the train. You really feel like you are in a western film, all I need is a cowboy hat and gun and i’d fit in, call me Sammy the Kid from now on please. As the sunset over the desert I turn in for the night and try and get a few hours kip.

Waking up at about 7am and looking out of the window watching the sun bounce its pastel colours off the unusual rock formations I start chatting to the guy next to me, a very interesting gentleman who was a retired LA cop. I found him a really fascinating guy who had some touching stories to share, he seemed to have a wonderful life and I think he found my trip rather mind blowing. I seem to chat to him forever which made the rest of the journey go to fast. I’m so glad when I’m travelling you meet people like this. Train travel is a great way to meet our fellow human race and sometimes you meet people in this world that really can change the way you think.

The train carries on over the Serra Nevada when again the train climbs up in to the mountains and along side the American Canyon (yes thats what its called) Silly name but the view makes up for it. From the train window you can see many old ghost town from the old gold rush days that have been abandon once the gold ran out in the area. I know this because we had a history lesson from two old gentlemen from the Sacramento Railway Museum who pointed out all the key points along the route over the intercom. I did find myself being sucked in to the train anoraks world on many occasions. I promise you guys I’m not going to change in to a trainspotter just yet.

I said a good bye to Everitt in Sacramento and continued the last 2 hours of my train journey by myself, as the night closed in I slapped on the ipod and found myself again listening to the Postal Service album ‘Give Up’ which seems to be my number one album for train travel. I stepped off the train at 19:30 to find a cold and wet San Francisco bay in front of my eyes. I had done it, travelled from east coast to west coast via the train. Pretty good as 5 weeks before I really hadn’t got a clue I was even coming to the States. This trip is certainly random, I wouldn’t want it any other way.

Next stop the Bay!!! Welcome to wild wild west!

3 Responses to “The Zephyr”

1. Stuart William says:

   October 29, 2007 at 11:50 am

   Trainspotter!
   the snowy bits sound well cool!
2. hannah says:

   October 29, 2007 at 12:03 pm

   you’re turning into such a hippy sam!!!
3. Charlie says:

   October 29, 2007 at 6:49 pm

   Taking pictures of people sleeping? How pervy!

   Were you the youngest person on there?